Kawakubo not only dedicated a corner of her cult Dover Street Market in London to his sweaters and sweatpants with Cyrillic writing but also helped him with just about everything else: from sewing prototypes to promotion to selling in her Paris showroom. Get the week's best stories straight to your inbox. All Rights Reserved. 100 years of fashion in Russia: 1915-2015>>>. It has 35 jewellery and watch boutiques in Moscow, seven in St Petersburg and five in Sochi representing Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Hublot, Breguet, Girard-Perregaux, Tudor, Zenith, Bell & Ross, Breitling, Blancpain, De Bethune, Urwerk, DeWitt, Greubel Forsey, Ulysse Nardin, TAG Heuer, Gucci and Channel. Subscribe to The Art Newspapers digital newsletter for your daily digest of essential news, views and analysis from the international art world delivered directly to your inbox. Today she does shows for Vetements, Balenciaga and her friend Gosha Rubchinsky. Other partners with a stake in the auction house include Phillips contemporary-art director Michael McGinnis and international specialist Michaela Neumeister. Earlier this month, Matthew Girling, the former CEO of Bonhams, told the Art Newspaper that people should boycott Phillips, which is owned by Russians Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin.. Leonid Friedland had already declared that Mercury didn`t participate in foreign trade activities, in fact, he had no idea how the goods were delivered to Moscow. Born in 1969. In 2005, the duo also launched the Barvikha Luxury Village development. You have entered an incorrect email address! Still, doing business with any powerful company based in Russia is outrageous, Andy Hall, a retired hedge funder, oil trader, art collector and philanthropist told The Post. 2023 NYP Holdings, Inc. All Rights Reserved, powerful sanctions against Putins oligarchs, When disinfo specialists lie, Gray Ladys DeSantis frustration and other commentary, Putins former spin doctor-turned-critic dead, Ukraines northeastern front could decide new battle lines, Biden needs to step up military aid for Ukraine fast, unplugged from the SWIFT payments apparatus, said Wednesday that hed sell the Chelsea soccer team. The company representatives stated that the name Ecolux meant nothing to them, and they are not aware of any supplier with such name. After graduating from London's Central Saint Martins, Gordienko created the thick Marfa Journal, a magazine dedicated to her impressions of everything in the world from travels with friends across the U.S. and encounters with Erik Brunetti, creator of the FUCT clothing brand, to works by minimalist artist Donald Judd. Its upsetting because its a step towards changing the culture, too. Contemporary art star Anish Kapoor considers "Phillips as legitimate a target as the Chelsea football club", formerly owned by Roman Abramovitch. The event and forthcoming auctions will also be a litmus test of feeling towards Phillips, which insists it is business as usual in the face of a boycott by respected figures in the art world. Official website : TOP 4: Updating: Official website : TOP 5: Updating: Official website Earlier this month, Matthew Girling, the former CEO of Bonhams, told the Art Newspaper that people should boycott Phillips, which is owned by Russians Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin. Mercury reputedly paid around US$60 million to acquire a majority share, although the actual transaction was private. Matthew Girling, the former CEO of Bonhams, a competing auction house, told The Art Newspaper that people should boycott Phillips over its Russian links. A Phillips statement said that its sales of contemporary art rose 80 percent between 2007 and 2008. The lucrative sales are typically popular with Russian collectors, and a number of the wealthiestincluding Putin allies Petr Aven, who recently . In February 1998, Borodin gave him a $6400 payment receipt and some foreign currency cash. Phillips's new Manhattan headquarters at 450 Park Avenue, New York. That seller is starchitect Norman Foster. Now Mercury is about to double its customer reach and its 1,000 strong work force by refurbishing TSUM, the dowager grand duchess of department stores, which brought luxury to Moscow in Russia's Belle Epoque. Anyone involved in this auction has blood on their hands, one outraged art consultant who did not want to be named told The Post. According to a report in the Russian newspaper Kommersant, the groups 2006 turnover was estimated at $850 million. The company owns fashion boutiques selling Goiorgio Armany, Patek Philippe, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Tods, Rolex, Bvlgari, Tiffany & Co., Chopard, Bentley, Ferrari, Maserati cars and other luxury brands. In January 1998, the Swiss attorney general Carla Del Ponte informed Scuratov about Behgjet Pacolli`s testimony that Mabetex had paid for tailoring. She covered all the roles in the magazine: journalist, art director and photographer. Girling, the former Bonhams CEO, said that only a boycott would get the attention of the owners of Mercury to hopefully influence Putin to change his current chosen course of action., We have seen how the world of banking, travel, leisure, sport and culture have responded to the crisis, he told The Art Newspaper. In 2003, the Central Customs Administration took an inventory of Armani, Gucci, Zegna and Dolche&Gabbana stores owned by Mercury in Moscow. By Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune. But there is one Western element that he does not yet see. Earlier this month, Matthew Girling, the former CEO of Bonhams, told the Art Newspaper that people should boycott Phillips, which is owned by Russians Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin . Enter your email to join the thousands of other professionals receiving breaking news from WATCHPRO. Matthew Girling has also urged collectors to boycott Phillips. Phillips, of course is owned by Mercury Group, founded in 1993 by the Russian entrepreneurs Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin who acquired the auction house in 2008, when it was known as Phillips de Pury & Luxembourg, for a reported $60m. Head of the Property Department Vladimir Silkin claimed that TD TSUM gains illegal profits from sales on city territory. We at Phillips unequivocally condemn the invasion of Ukraine. May 15, 2012 | 4:00am Not even a billionaire can rent out the Four Seasons Hotel's luxe Ty Warner suite for a party. 1,556 executive movements have been recorded in the last 12 months. Amid bloodshed in the Ukraine following the Russian militarys invasion in the country last week, sweeping economic sanctions targeting oligarchs with ties to the Russian government are being levied. Fridliand says that all investions are made from the annual net gain; Mercury`s policy allegedly has no room for taking out loans or selling shares. In 2007, Mercury announced launching the Sochi Luxury Village Project (similar to the Barvikha Luxury Village in Moscow region) in Esta-Sadok settlement near Sochi. Source: Nezavisimaya Gazeta, 22 October 2003. TD TSUM owns and runs the oldest Moscow department store TSUM, located in the city center. Earlier this month, Matthew Girling, the former CEO of Bonhams, told the Art Newspaper that people should boycott Phillips, which is owned by Russians Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin. Russia is so centralised and repressed that anyone who is in the economic and cultural elite in that country is, in a way, complicit with the current regime, he added, likening the situation to firms based in Nazi Germany and the boycotts that sought to freeze out South African-controlled businesses in the Apartheid era. While last months EU sanctions led to the French government seizing a yacht belonging to another oligarch, Igor Sechin, Avens work does not appear to be at risk of being confiscated by the UK government at least for now. 4. All rights reserved by Rossiyskaya Gazeta. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Thanks for contacting us. One of the principal divas of Russian cinema, Litvinova is a student and follower of the great filmmaker Kira Muratova. Friedland and Strunin also own the Mercury Retail Group, one of the largest luxury goods retailers in Russia. Litvinova is often called the "Marlene Dietrich of today" and the "Russian icon of style." According to the statement from Phillips, talks with Mercury Group began in July 2007 and continued for more than a year. The consigner then was the New York collector and dealer Adam Lindemann who acquired the early painting at Sothebys London in June 2004 for 2.4m (including fees). Leonid Mikhelson, the billionaire owner of Russia's gas giant Novatek, has been supporting the Western art world for more than a decade, sponsoring exhibitions at the Art Institute of Chicago . It was founded in 1993 by Russian entrepreneurs Leonid Fridlyand and Leonid Strunin, who are reportedly close to Putin. Renata Litvinova, actress, director and creative director at the Numro Russia magazine. Mercury started investing into Expansion Redesign project of the DLT in 2005. Earlier this month, Matthew Girling, the former CEO of Bonhams, told the Art Newspaper that people should boycott Phillips, which is owned by Russians Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin. The duo also currently operate franchises for luxury car makers such as Ferrari, Maserati and Bentley and in 2008 acquired art auctioneers Phillips de Pury & Company, further expanding their extensive luxury portfolio. 2023 Art Media, LLC. The Russian invasion of Ukraine, which took place on February 24th, shocked the whole world. Now those new projects are frozen and nothing can be taken out of Russia., Stephen Brooks, the CEO of Phillips, said earlier this month: We at Phillips unequivocally condemn the invasion of Ukraine. This sum only covers the period of 2006-2009, with TSUM using the simplified scheme in 2004-2007. ARTnews is a part of Penske Media Corporation. Criminal proceedings against ex-Prosecutor General Yuri Skuratov revealed that he had placed an order for 14 tailored suites made by the Italian company Zegna. ", https://www.nytimes.com/2003/03/03/news/rising-czars-of-russias-retail-luxury.html, Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune. But the list is changing fast. Maezawa bought the painting atChristies New York in May 2016 for a then record $57.2m (including fees). With an expanding market of eager, upbeat consumers, as opposed to retailers on shrinking budgets in the morose Western markets, Mercury's buyers are becoming luxury fashion's big spenders. Phillips also recently announced its exclusive representation of photographer Annie Leibovitz (see story below). In 2002 Time magazine placed its owners on the list of 25 most influential people in the world of fashion. It is small, centrally located in Moscow and sells the Maison Margiela and Nina Donis brands, along with designer souvenirs, art books and other things. While many tended to have traditional tastes, the same source said it was particularly sad as sanctions on Russia, and the clampdown on the movement of money, would halt a growing trend towards collecting and preserving more recent Russian art and history. Borodin testified that he had got the idea about tailored suits because of Skuratov`s limited choice of clothing. They provided the donation but its really not back to business as usual, and I think buyers and consignors should take their business elsewhere. Send us a tip using our anonymous form. With reported annual revenues of more than $8 billion, the company operates high-end department stores and shopping centers, including the prestigious TsUM . That amounts to Borisenko monthly wage of $50.000. The Instagram post featured a blue and yellow abstraction by Ellsworth Kelly, the same colours of the Ukrainian flag. Along with the rest of the art world, we have been shocked and saddened by the tragic events unfolding in the region. Among them are Gennady Timchenko, an energy mogul and owner of investment firm Volga Group who has a track record of working to promote Russian heritage abroad through arts and cultural initiatives. This intermediary firm was charged with regular custom value underreporting. We call for an immediate cessation of all hostilities in the strongest possible terms, he said. Construction and infrastructure magnates, Boris and Igor Rotenberg, who were investigated for circumventing sanctions to buy art in 2020, have also been targeted. Friedland and Strunin, who are not subject to any sanctions, list their addresses on Companies House as the Berkeley Square headquarters of Phillips, which was acquired in 2008 by their Russian. He is also the founder of TSUM Art Foundation. Its holdings include the Tretyakov Projezd and Barvikha Luxury Villageboth high-end shopping centersand TSUM, its flagship department store, next door to Moscows Bolshoi Theater. Matthew Girling, chief executive of Bonhams until 2020, told The Art Newspaperhe believes people should still boycott Phillips over its Russian links. Name: Leonid Surname : Strunin Middle name : Izyaslavovich Post : General Director of Russian Art - XXI century Biography Born in 1969, Strunin is the Chairman of Mercury, the largest Russian luxury retailer, selling watches and clothes as well as cars. The colleagues of Leonid Friedland. Anyone can read what you share. One cannot imagine a list of world-famous Russians without top model model and mother of four Natalya Vodyanova. Ironically, or so it would seem, Phillips also announced on Monday that it would be selling Jean-Michel Basquiats massive Untitled painting from 1982 from the collection of the Japanese billionaire Yusaku Maezawa in its 20th century and contemporary art sale in May in New York . Leonid Strunin. Since 2008, the auction house has belonged to Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin, the owners of Russian luxury group Mercury. Along with the rest of the art world, we have been shocked and saddened by the tragic events unfolding in the region. She has opened several Babochka multi-brand boutiques, which represent brands such as Stella McCartney and Valentino, as well as mono-brand boutiques selling merchandise by Chanel, Fendi, Giorgio Armani and others. Earlier this month, Matthew Girling, the former CEO of Bonhams, told the Art Newspaper that people should boycott Phillips, which is owned by Russians Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin.. Along with the rest of the art world, we have been shocked and saddened by the tragic events unfolding in the region. As the EU, UK and US impose a punishing roster of economic sanctions against Russia for its ongoing invasion of Ukraine, Russian-owned businesses are potentially at risk of suffering collateral damage. Click here to find out more. Only a boycott of Phillips sales will get the attention of the world and the owners of Mercury to hopefully influence Putin to change his current chosen course of action. Both are Russian with their address given as Phillips London headquarters in Mayfair and their countries of residence recorded as Monaco and Cyprus, respectively. The historic building, near the Bolshoi, will be refurbished to its former grandeur, enlarged with a new development at the back, and become a palace of brands. Two influentialRussian figures in the global fashion business, Fridlyand and Strunin were amongst the first to establish early franchise and distribution rights for brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Prada within the former Soviet Union. The billionaires obviously came but then they brought a next wave, including those who worked with and for them as well as others who came simply because they could, said one concerned Russian whose business is part of a network of advisories and consultancies catering for compatriots needs on schooling, property and culture. Miroslava Duma, publisher of Buro 24/7. In that same vein, it is understood the owners are not the subject of any sanctions or affiliated with any parties targeted by sanctions. After LVMH owner Bernard Arnault acquired a majority stake in 1999, the company made an unsuccessful attempt to compete with Sothebys and Christies, often through aggressive use of guarantees, which were not always recouped at auction. "People already had a great sense of taste and quality; it has always been there and how could luxury die?" u thng ny, Matthew Girling, cu Gim c iu hnh ca Bonhams, ni vi Art Newspaper rng mi ngi nn ty chay Phillips, cng ty thuc s hu ca ngi Nga Leonid Friedland v Leonid Strunin. Some people say they dont want to mix business and politics, but thats ridiculous, Hall said. Mercury Group was established in 1994 by Friedland and Leonid Strunin, who are known to be its principal owners. Leonid Friedland Owner of the Auction House Phillips Marina Abramovic Performance artist, founder of Marina Abramovi Institute Marina Loshak Director of the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts Nicolas Iljine Advisor to the General Director of the State Hermitage Museum, culture consultant Roman Trotsenko Entrepreneur, philanthropist, collector The company owns the "boutique street" in Tretyakov Proyezd in the center of Moscow, the fashionable Barvikha Luxury Village and the TsUM department store, which sells more than 1,000 brands, including Tom Ford, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Saint Lauren, Bentley, Bulgari and Patek Philippe. One director of Sothebys another auction house told the Telegraph that they were checking bulletins hourly to see whether any of their buyers and sellers were on any government sanctions lists. Friedland and Strunin have not been named among the people whose assets are being frozen by the US and UK, though even businessmen who are not being hit with sanctions could face difficulties going forward. Phillips, Sothebys and Christies are expected to generate more than $800 million in sales this week up 35% from last year. Here is how the art world responds to the conflict. The main elements of her image are elegance in black tones, a wavy 1940s-style haircut and bright red lipstick. In an Instagram post on March 1, the companys CEO Stephen Brooks reacted with dismay to the organizations 289,000 followers at the invasion of Ukraine. In autumn and winter 1997, Skuratov received 14 suites. With questions lingering about how businesses of all kinds will be impacted, the auction house Phillips, which is owned by Russian luxury retailer Mercury Group, has said it doesnt expect sanctions to affect its operations. Friedland and Strunin have not been named among the people whose assets are being frozen by the US and UK, though even businessmen who are not being hit with sanctions could face difficulties. All my money goes into art, he said. Friedland and Strunin, who are not subject to any sanctions, list their addresses on Companies House as the Berkeley Square headquarters of Phillips, which was acquired in 2008 by their Russian luxury goods company, Mercury Group. He is not stingy at all and easily gives a discount to people whom he finds agreeable. Mercury has stated that the city government pushes them towards purchasing these commercial spaces on upcoming auction, scheduled on November, 3. Phillips CEO Stephen Brooks posted on social media that the auction house unequivocally condemn[s] the invasion of Ukraine. Friedland denied that, and Sberbank refused to comment on the situation, referring to trade secrets. If there was a professional performance contest among Russian reshaly (problem-solvers), Major General Igor Alekseevich Borisenko, Counsillor of Justice 3d class and Supreme Court Justice Deparment officer, could won by head. Along with the rest of the art world, we have been shocked and saddened by the tragic events unfolding in the region, said Stephen Brooks, Phillips CEO, in a statement to ARTnews. There and how could luxury die? from last year its upsetting because its a step towards changing culture! A stake in the region and international specialist leonid friedland and leonid strunin Neumeister, art director and.. Shocked and saddened by the Italian company Zegna often called the `` Marlene Dietrich of today '' and the Russian! Investing into Expansion Redesign project of the Ukrainian flag meant nothing to them, and they are not aware any., Skuratov received 14 suites `` people already had a great sense of taste quality... 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